Indiana Dunes & The Seagull

Along the sandy shores of Lake Michigan, the Dunes of Indiana rise to towering heights.

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A state park inside a national park. That’s what keeps the Indiana Dunes region a protected shoreline. Years ago the sand dunes were harvested for industry, especially glass making. Then in the 1960’s forward-thinking folks realized this area should be protected before all the dunes disappear forever.

I spent a week at the dunes, lolling on the sand and watching the shore birds. Which got me thinking about the book Johnathan Livingston Seagull. Maybe you remember that influential novel? It had a big impact on me when I was young. So I listened to the audiobook (dramatically read by Richard Harris) from under an umbrella shading my beach chair. Can’t say the book aged well, but then who has?

Johnathan Livingston Seagull was an outcast in his flock because instead of fighting for food he wanted to be the best flying bird possible. He aimed to achieve flight perfection. The core themes of this mostly spiritual book are self-actualization and karmic redemption. What resonated with me as a teen was the message that it’s okay to be different. As long as you have singular purpose and dedication. It was that second half that messed with my young mind. Johnathan could fly, but I couldn’t figure out what my natural talent was. And truthfully, I’m still looking for it!

As the seagull flies, the next town over, Beverly Shores, is only a couple of miles. I decided to be the best bicycle rider I could be by taking the Calumet Trail there. The bike trail is strewn with rough railroad gravel and pockmarked with deep mud puddles. It was a grueling slog in terrific heat, and the poor dog, who endured it all from the back of a bicycle trailer, still hasn’t forgiven me.

Beverly Shores is a small lakeside community famous for the Century of Progress Homes that were relocated from the 1933 Chicago Worlds Fair.

I was not in a soaring Seagull frame of mind when I finally arrived there from the rough bike trail. The heat index was in the danger zone, and I just wanted to sit in the shade of the town gazebo and look at the lake for a good long while. But an old hippie type sidled up, determined to talk politics with me. He was like a sand fly I couldn’t shoo away. The only escape was to pack up the dog in the bike trailer and head back, this time via the paved highway. A route that was mildly dangerous and certainly miles longer, but surpassed the Calumet Trail in ease of travel.

Behind the tall sand dunes are marshes and bogs. It’s a wetland ecosystem that’s also protected with national park status. Nesting cranes can been spotted among the aquatic plants.

Seeing the bird nests made me realize that all the characters in Johnathan Livingston Seagull are male. Not a single female bird is mentioned. I guess if you’re busy hatching and feeding a clutch of chicks you don’t need to be self-fulfilled. Like I said, the book hasn’t aged well.

I was surprised to discover the Dunes has its own railroad station. Several trains a day run to downtown Chicago. Next time I’ll plan a side trip to the Windy City.

At the end of the week I stopped thinking about the stupid seagull and caught a beautiful sunset from the rooftop restaurant at the beach pavilion. Far in the distance the Chicago skyline was silhouetted in glowing pink.

Satisfied I’d done my best self-actualized vacation, I said goodbye to Indiana Dunes.