Wabash & Erie Canal

Once upon a time a national canal system seemed the most promising way to haul freight across the country.

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Did you know Indiana had one of the most ambitious canal systems ever engineered? Before trains dominated the landscape, and a century before interstate trucking would appear, it seemed reasonable to dig a bunch of long canal systems to connect all the big cities by waterway.

I discovered the Wabash & Erie Canal in Delphi, Indiana where a section of the waterway and towpath is maintained as a historic site. At one time this canal stretched over 460 miles connecting Toledo to the Ohio River.

Towpaths ran alongside the canal where mules would pull the barges by rope through the channel. I camped a few feet away from one towpath at Delphi’s historic park.

Delphi has a bicycle trail that follows the remnants of the canal, past old locks and bridges, through woods and fields. It’s a lovely ride, well marked and dotted with information signs.

After a couple of miles, the bike trail circled around and led back into town. A pretty little city, with shady neighborhoods and a canal in the background.

Sweaty and swooned from the bike ride, I stopped for a late lunch at Brick & Mortar Pub on Main Street.

When I emerged from lunch, downtown Delphi was quiet and empty on a Sunday afternoon. Nary a soul around except two boys with fishing poles headed for the canal.

Which made it all the more strange when a couple of Twilight Zone MIB types stepped from the shadows and confronted me. They tried to ask questions, which I didn’t answer, then they followed me around town for a while. That, plus the constant police sirens, and I’d say something is afoot in Delphi, for sure.

I’m not easily spooked but I do know when it’s time to disappear. I dodged back to the camouflage of the tow path and stayed close to camp the rest of the evening.

The next morning I packed out early and left town. Regrettably, my opinion of sweet little Delphi had turned as muddy and murky as the Wabash & Erie Canal.