The Spas of Hot Springs

It’s historic. It’s healing. It’s a National Park. Hot Springs, Arkansas was a surprise at every turn.

Beyond Arkansas’s cotton fields and prairies, where the western landscape rises up to become the Ozark mountains, lies the town of Hot Springs. I drove a long way to indulge in its thermal waters.

Built at the turn of the 1900’s, Hot Springs was a destination to heal whatever ailed you.  Nowadays we think of a hot tub soak as recreation, but back then it was considered curative.  Mineral spring baths were prescribed by doctors for arthritis, liver problems, gall stones, hernias and female issues, to name a few.  The historic section of Hot Springs features nine therapeutic bathhouses in a row – now all owned by the National Park Service.

Hot Springs sits in a steep gorge where the converging mountains cleave into a narrow gulch.  Water from these mountains makes its way deep into the earth, and several thousand years later it comes bubbling to the surface at a decidedly warm temperature of 130°. There are many public fountains around town where you can dip your fingers in the hot water or fill a thermos.

The Visitor Center is located on Bathhouse Row in one of the former spas. Here you can learn about the town’s history of healing waters and gambling parlors. Al Capone was a regular patron.

Two of the original nine bathhouses are still in use as day spas. Others now house a bakery, brewery, and gift shop. And a couple are empty. But the Arlington Hotel should be counted as a tenth spa. It’s just beyond Bathhouse Row, and is still an ongoing hotel and spa, retaining its old glory. I dined at their Friday night seafood buffet, where Mr. Derrick expertly prepared a Scallop Flambé dish.

You can’t come to Hot Springs without taking a Thermal Bath. Several spas offer the service at a reasonable $40, and prepare your bath exactly like they did 100 years ago. It’s a tradition.

There are Men’s and Ladies’ sides to the spa. I was shown to a changing room, told to take everything off, and handed a bedsheet to wrap myself. An attendant directed me to a bathing stall with a century-old porcelain bathtub big enough to hold a hippo. I swear it was eight feet long and about four feet tall.

Hot thermal spring water flowed from an antique copper spigot, and the attendant helped my naked self into the tub. I was a little embarrassed but she was very professional and, believe me, you need help.  Especially coming out!  After a hot soak your limbs feel like limp linguini.

Afterward you’re wrapped in a bundle of steamed towels and left to swoon on the cooling beds. When you finally feel like you can stand upright again, the treatment is over. It was heaven!

I needed a couple of spa treatments because I spent a week hiking and biking around Hot Springs. And shopping. The town is full of quirky boutiques.

Hot Springs is also famous for its hiking trails. The dog and I did some easy exploring.

There’s a new 20 mile bike trail from downtown to a nearby lake. I studied the Greenway map, packed up the dog and a little picnic, and headed out for the day. Didn’t get too far. Turns out the bike trail isn’t finished yet. Hmm, maybe they should mention that in the brochure!

Never rented a car in Hot Springs. Rode the bike everywhere. But after a couple of weeks on the road I needed to do laundry. Bundled it all up in the bike’s basket and spent a Saturday evening at the Wash-N-Go.

Alas, it was time to go home. Left the mountains behind and headed back east through the cotton fields.

A lot of driving, but a great trip. Really loved Arkansas, especially in springtime before the heat descends.

If you’re ever in that direction, do stop and partake of the waters in Hot Springs!